Sergio Rossi Designer Paul Andrew Said to Exit Brand

MILAN – Paul Andrew is said to be exiting Sergio Rossi, WWD has learned.

The designer was tapped to reinvigorate the storied footwear brand in July 2024 by parent Lanvin Group and his designs have sparked newfound buzz, taking Sergio Rossi into a new and bold direction while respectful of the late namesake founder’s legacy.

For example, Andrew revisited Sergio Rossi’s cone heels, a pyramid-like shape on the lasts, eel skin, a material Rossi employed in the 1990s using deadstock, and the architectural arch invented by the founder.

Andrew introduced his first collection for Sergio Rossi in February 2025 and at the time he enthused about the brand’s factory and archive in San Mauro Pascoli, one of the main footwear manufacturing hubs in Italy.

According to market sources, Lanvin Group is selling the factory, modernized by former owner Kering- then Gucci Group -in the early 2000s, to Massimo and Sabrina Bonini, the masterminds behind Milan-based Massimo Bonini, who have built a leading platform in the development and wholesaling of footwear and handbags. The Boninis were inducted into the Hall of Fame at the 39th annual FN Achievement Awards in 2025.

Andrew introduced his namesake label in 2013, which he continues to design, and is also known for his run at the creative helm of Ferragamo, which he exited in 2021.

Lanvin Group, formerly Fosun Fashion Group, also controls the Lanvin brand; Austrian hosiery specialist Wolford; Italian men’s wear company Caruso, and American fashion brand St. John, and is publicly traded on Wall Street. It acquired Sergio Rossi in 2021 from Absolute Luxury Holding Srl, an independently managed subsidiary of European investment house Investindustrial. The latter bought the brand from Kering in December 2015.

Financially, Lanvin Group has been struggling, and in 2024 revenues fell 23 percent to 329 million euros. Losses widened to 189.3 million euros from 146.3 million euros a year earlier. Adjusted losses before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization widened to $92.3 million from $64.2 million. Rumors about potential divestments from the fashion brands periodically resurface.

Sergio Rossi died in 2020 aged 84. The footwear legend built one of Italy’s most storied luxury shoe brands and inspired generations of designers, including his son Gianvito. He began producing footwear in the 1950s and launched his namesake brand in 1968. As he grew his own label, the designer also collaborated with fashion houses such as Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Azzedine Alaïa. Rossi developed a number of groundbreaking styles such as the Opanca sandal with its curved sole.